Taliban signaled in Cameroon,

I already have received similar remarks when I started to wear my pilawol, e.g. to take my “terrorist on bike look”. A poor terrorist however, because nowadays a self-respecting terrorist drives at least a Toyota landcruiser. The cold wind, the smog and the dust called Dubire, forced me to adapt to the local customs.

Unfortunately I still write you from Maroua, I planned my departure one week ago but the day before I wanted to leave I didn’t understand why the weather was so outrageously hot. I was sweating while other people didn’t seem to bother so much. I therefore decided to have a critical look at myself and found that I had over 40 degrees fever. A friend of mine, Dahirou immediately bought me anti malaria treatment suspecting it was Malaria. However I decided to do some tests after some days since I still didn't feel fine and it turned out to be Typhoides. I was already out of battle before the field battle really has started. Today is the first day I am back I feel fine again and the next departure is planned on Wednesday 28th of January to the floodplain south of Lake Chad. My plan is to buy a hut in Mazera and from there do my research among the Nomadic Fulani who stay there actually. Next to the Fulani I will do research among the Kotoko and Musgum. They are mostly fishermen with a special technique; they put nets at the end of long canals which connect rivers and used by fish to procreate. These fishing canals block the road of the Fulani herders more than once (there are thousands of them along one river) but when the cattle enter and the canal is blocked the fish is said not to return that year. However for the Fulani herders these canals are really difficult to cross and deprive them from many good pastures.
Since it only rains during 3 months in the year and the rest of the year is completely dry. In the few fertile months in the year everybody must make sure to produce enough to survive. Therefore conflicts proliferate (which is good for my reseach J).

I have now engaged two assistants and there is still one to follow, Al Qaeida Cameroon is still expanding. If you see three man in tulban on 2 motorbikes , one of them white don't worry, they are good guys. Honestly I am still puzzling a bit in my head how to transport 3 assistants and myself plus luggages with 2 motorbikes but according to my assistents there is nothing to worry and we will manage. The result of the puzzle will be shown in the next episode where I hopefully have lived some more exciting adventures!

First impressions

Dear all, Jam Bandu na?

That is the traditional opening of the greeting ritual when you meet somebody!

I have been here now for two weeks in Maroua, “Groningen of Cameroon” since it is the most Northern City of Cameroon. It is a lively city but also quite secure fortunately. The people in general are Muslim though there are also many Christians. To the contrary of Nigeria there have however never been religious tensions here.

In a way it is if I had never left since the last time I was here 5 years ago. I arrived the last day of the year in Maroua where my former assistant and friend Saidou Kari picked me up from the airport. When I entered Maroua by car I immediately crossed with an Italian missionary friend, Giuseppe Parrietti who has stayed already since I am born in Cameroon. His work is to stimulate dialogue between Muslims and Christans and he also works on a dictionary in Fulfulde. When I called him he immediately invited me to celebrate New Years Eve with his Italian visitors, and there I was, eating Italian pasta with 7 Italians in Cameroon on New Years Eve. Quiet compared to the party with André and Atsje last year, but very nice.
It is now the cold season in Cameroon which means that the average temperature is still about 30 degrees more than in your place actually. It is a pity that I miss all the snow fun, I really have difficulties to believe the weather forecast for Europe here. Is the Elfstedentocht really going to take place when I am here? In spite of that I have already caught a cold from driving my motorbike in the first week…
It is very nice to see the friends from my last stay and I have already met many new people. I force myself to only speak in Fulfulde instead of French and I have already regained so much that I am able to converse in Fulfulde, though a bit awkward still.
I stay now in a room in the association of my former assistant and friend, Saidou Kari and prepare all the necessary for my fieldwork which I aim to start next week. All the practical matters like opening a bank account, research permission etc.. is now behind me. I am the proud owner of a 125cc Honda and a 100cc Suzuki motor cycle (for my new assistant) freshly imported from Nigeria. And don’t worry about my motorskills! I will also be in possession of a legal motor driver’s license in two weeks though obtained in a not very legal way (just pay the right person the right amount).
I will finally shortly try to explain my research theme. I will study the conflicts nomadic herders have with the people they meet on their way. They meet very different tribes who are organized in very different ways politically and socially. Some tribes have big chiefs, e.g. central powers, while other tribes are more egalitarian without one big chief. Moreover these tribes have different occupations, some being fishermen, others farmers and again others herders. Next to the traditional laws they also have the state law which they can use in conflicts. My research will try to find out how they deal with conflicts and how the differences I described above influence this.
Because I will be with several groups I need at least 2 assistants who can translate. I am now in negotiation about this with Saidou. That is a thing I find difficult… everything must be negotiated!

Allah ceene ma! (May Allah give you joy)