Saturday, 10 January 2009

First impressions


Dear all, Jam Bandu na?

That is the traditional opening of the greeting ritual when you meet somebody!

I have been here now for two weeks in Maroua, “Groningen of Cameroon” since it is the most Northern City of Cameroon. It is a lively city but also quite secure fortunately. The people in general are Muslim though there are also many Christians. To the contrary of Nigeria there have however never been religious tensions here.

In a way it is if I had never left since the last time I was here 5 years ago. I arrived the last day of the year in Maroua where my former assistant and friend Saidou Kari picked me up from the airport. When I entered Maroua by car I immediately crossed with an Italian missionary friend, Giuseppe Parrietti who has stayed already since I am born in Cameroon. His work is to stimulate dialogue between Muslims and Christans and he also works on a dictionary in Fulfulde. When I called him he immediately invited me to celebrate New Years Eve with his Italian visitors, and there I was, eating Italian pasta with 7 Italians in Cameroon on New Years Eve. Quiet compared to the party with André and Atsje last year, but very nice.
It is now the cold season in Cameroon which means that the average temperature is still about 30 degrees more than in your place actually. It is a pity that I miss all the snow fun, I really have difficulties to believe the weather forecast for Europe here. Is the Elfstedentocht really going to take place when I am here? In spite of that I have already caught a cold from driving my motorbike in the first week…
It is very nice to see the friends from my last stay and I have already met many new people. I force myself to only speak in Fulfulde instead of French and I have already regained so much that I am able to converse in Fulfulde, though a bit awkward still.
I stay now in a room in the association of my former assistant and friend, Saidou Kari and prepare all the necessary for my fieldwork which I aim to start next week. All the practical matters like opening a bank account, research permission etc.. is now behind me. I am the proud owner of a 125cc Honda and a 100cc Suzuki motor cycle (for my new assistant) freshly imported from Nigeria. And don’t worry about my motorskills! I will also be in possession of a legal motor driver’s license in two weeks though obtained in a not very legal way (just pay the right person the right amount).
I will finally shortly try to explain my research theme. I will study the conflicts nomadic herders have with the people they meet on their way. They meet very different tribes who are organized in very different ways politically and socially. Some tribes have big chiefs, e.g. central powers, while other tribes are more egalitarian without one big chief. Moreover these tribes have different occupations, some being fishermen, others farmers and again others herders. Next to the traditional laws they also have the state law which they can use in conflicts. My research will try to find out how they deal with conflicts and how the differences I described above influence this.
Because I will be with several groups I need at least 2 assistants who can translate. I am now in negotiation about this with Saidou. That is a thing I find difficult… everything must be negotiated!

Allah ceene ma! (May Allah give you joy)

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